Question 1

What are the most common causes of furnace failure?

Accepted Answer

The most common issues we see are dirty or failed ignitors, faulty flame sensors, clogged filters restricting airflow, blower motor failures, and thermostat issues.

Question 2

How much does furnace repair cost?

Accepted Answer

Common repairs like ignitor replacement typically run $150–$350. More complex repairs involving the heat exchanger or motor can cost more. We always provide a written estimate before beginning work.

Question 3

Is my furnace safe to run if it's making strange noises?

Accepted Answer

Not necessarily. Banging, rattling, or squealing noises can indicate serious mechanical issues. Turn off the furnace and call us for a diagnosis — running a damaged furnace can cause further damage or safety hazards.

Question 4

Why is my furnace blowing cold air?

Accepted Answer

The most common causes are a dirty air filter restricting airflow, a malfunctioning flame sensor that shuts down the burner after ignition, or a thermostat set to 'ON' instead of 'AUTO' so the blower runs even when the burners aren't firing. If you've checked the filter and thermostat setting and still get cold air, the issue is likely a failed ignitor, gas valve problem, or cracked heat exchanger — all of which need professional diagnosis.

Question 5

My furnace runs but doesn't produce heat — what's wrong?

Accepted Answer

When the blower runs but there's no heat, the burners aren't igniting or the gas supply is interrupted. Check that your gas valve is open and your thermostat is set to heat mode. If everything looks right, the ignitor or flame sensor has likely failed — the control board fires the ignitor, doesn't detect flame, and locks out the burners while leaving the blower running for safety.

Question 6

Why does my furnace blow warm air for a few minutes then switch to cold?

Accepted Answer

This usually points to a dirty flame sensor — the burners light initially but the sensor can't detect the flame, so the control board shuts them off as a safety measure while the blower continues running. A technician can clean or replace the flame sensor in about 15 minutes. Less commonly, a cracked heat exchanger can cause the high-limit switch to trip, which also shuts down the burners mid-cycle.

Question 7

Why won't my furnace turn on at all?

Accepted Answer

Start with the basics: check that the thermostat is set to heat and the temperature is set above room temperature, then verify the furnace power switch (usually a light switch on or near the unit) is in the ON position. Also check your breaker panel for a tripped breaker. If all of those check out, the issue is typically a failed control board, blown fuse on the board, or a bad transformer — you'll need a technician at that point.

Question 8

My thermostat is on but the furnace won't start — what should I check?

Accepted Answer

First, make sure the thermostat display is lit and the batteries aren't dead — a blank screen means no signal is reaching the furnace. Next, check that the furnace door panel is fully seated, because most furnaces have a safety switch that kills power if the panel is even slightly ajar. If neither of those is the issue, the problem is usually in the control board, wiring, or a failed component like the inducer motor or pressure switch.

Question 9

What does it mean when my furnace clicks but doesn't start?

Accepted Answer

Clicking usually means the control board is sending the signal to ignite, but the ignition sequence is failing. The inducer motor should start first, then the pressure switch closes, then the ignitor glows, and finally the gas valve opens. If you hear clicking but no whoosh of ignition, the hot surface ignitor is likely cracked or worn out — it's one of the most common furnace repairs we do and takes about 30 minutes.

Question 10

Can a tripped breaker cause my furnace not to turn on?

Accepted Answer

Yes, and it's more common than people think. Furnaces draw power for the control board, inducer motor, ignitor, and blower motor. A power surge, short in the wiring, or a failing blower motor can trip the breaker. Reset it once — if it trips again immediately, do not keep resetting it. That indicates an electrical fault that needs professional diagnosis to prevent a fire hazard.

Question 11

Why does my furnace keep turning on and off every few minutes?

Accepted Answer

Short cycling is usually caused by a dirty filter, a malfunctioning flame sensor, or an overheating heat exchanger tripping the high-limit switch. The furnace starts up, runs for a few minutes, shuts off on safety, cools down, and tries again — that's the on-off-on pattern you're seeing. Left unaddressed, short cycling dramatically increases wear on the ignitor, gas valve, and blower motor, leading to premature failure.

Question 12

Is furnace short cycling dangerous?

Accepted Answer

Short cycling itself isn't immediately dangerous, but the underlying cause can be. If the furnace is short cycling because of a cracked heat exchanger, carbon monoxide could be leaking into your home. If it's overheating due to blocked airflow, it can stress electrical components and create a fire risk. I always recommend getting short cycling diagnosed quickly — it's never a problem that fixes itself.

Question 13

Why won't my furnace shut off?

Accepted Answer

If the burners are running continuously, the furnace can't satisfy the thermostat — this usually means the unit is undersized for your home, there's significant heat loss through poor insulation or duct leaks, or it's extremely cold outside and the system has reached its capacity. If the blower fan runs nonstop but the burners cycle normally, check that your thermostat fan setting is on 'AUTO' rather than 'ON.'

Question 14

My furnace runs all day but the house never gets warm enough — why?

Accepted Answer

In Asheville's mountain climate, this often comes down to undersized equipment, leaky ductwork losing heated air in unconditioned spaces like crawlspaces or attics, or a furnace that's lost efficiency due to age and wear. We see 15–25% heat loss through duct leaks alone in many older homes. A technician can measure your system's temperature rise and static pressure to pinpoint exactly where the problem is.

Question 15

Why is my furnace making a loud banging noise when it starts?

Accepted Answer

A bang or boom at startup is almost always delayed ignition — gas builds up in the combustion chamber before the ignitor lights it, causing a small explosion. This is caused by a dirty or weak ignitor, a misaligned burner, or a cracked flame sensor. Delayed ignition is a serious issue that can crack the heat exchanger over time, so don't ignore it.

Question 16

What does a squealing noise from my furnace mean?

Accepted Answer

A high-pitched squeal or screech typically comes from the blower motor — either the bearings are failing or, in older belt-driven units, the belt is worn, loose, or misaligned. Modern direct-drive blower motors don't have belts, so squealing in a newer furnace almost always means the motor bearings are going out and the motor will need replacement soon.

Question 17

Why is my furnace making a rattling noise?

Accepted Answer

Rattling usually means something is loose — a panel screw, a loose duct connection, or a cracked inducer housing. Start by checking that the front panel is properly seated and all visible screws are tight. If the rattling comes from inside the unit, the inducer motor or blower wheel may have a loose or cracked component. Persistent rattling should be inspected before a small problem turns into a failed motor.

Question 18

What causes a grinding noise in my furnace?

Accepted Answer

Grinding metal-on-metal sound means the blower motor bearings have failed or the blower wheel has come loose and is scraping against its housing. Turn the furnace off immediately — running it in this condition will destroy the motor and can damage the blower housing. This is a repair that's much cheaper to fix early than after the motor burns out completely.

Question 19

Why does my furnace make a popping noise?

Accepted Answer

Popping when the furnace starts or stops is usually the metal ductwork expanding and contracting with temperature changes — it's annoying but not dangerous. If the popping comes from inside the furnace itself at startup, that's more likely delayed ignition, which needs attention. A technician can tell the difference quickly by listening to where the sound originates.

Question 20

Is a clicking noise from my furnace normal?

Accepted Answer

Some clicking is normal during the ignition sequence — the control board relay clicks, the gas valve clicks open, and the ignitor sparks in spark-ignition models. Rapid or continuous clicking that doesn't lead to ignition usually means the ignitor is failing, the gas valve isn't opening, or the control board has a fault. If the furnace clicks repeatedly without starting, it needs service.

Question 21

Why is my furnace humming loudly?

Accepted Answer

A low hum from the transformer or inducer motor is normal during operation. A loud, unusual hum often points to a failing blower motor capacitor — the motor is trying to start but can't get up to speed. If you hear humming followed by the motor not starting, the capacitor is the first thing we check. It's an inexpensive part, but a failed capacitor will burn out the motor if ignored.

Question 22

What causes a whistling sound from my furnace?

Accepted Answer

Whistling is almost always an airflow issue — a clogged filter, closed or blocked return vents, or undersized ductwork forcing air through tight spaces. Check your filter first and make sure all vents and returns are open and unobstructed by furniture. If the whistling persists with a clean filter, the ductwork may need modification or the blower speed may need adjustment.

Question 23

Why does my furnace smell like gas?

Accepted Answer

If you smell gas near your furnace, shut it off immediately, leave the house, and call your gas company or 911 from outside. A gas smell can indicate a cracked gas line, a leaking gas valve, or a failed heat exchanger. Never use a lighter, flip switches, or use your phone near a gas leak. This is a genuine emergency and should be treated as one.

Question 24

Why does my furnace smell like something is burning?

Accepted Answer

A burning smell when you first turn on the furnace for the season is usually just dust burning off the heat exchanger and burners — it should go away within an hour. If the burning smell persists or appears mid-season, it could indicate an overheating motor, a wiring issue, or a foreign object in the ductwork. A persistent electrical burning smell always warrants a service call.

Question 25

Why does my furnace smell musty?

Accepted Answer

A musty or moldy smell usually comes from the ductwork, not the furnace itself. Moisture in your ducts — especially in Asheville homes with crawlspaces — creates an environment for mold and mildew growth. The furnace blower then pushes that musty air through every room. A duct inspection and professional cleaning, combined with addressing the moisture source, will resolve it.

Question 26

What does a rotten egg smell near my furnace mean?

Accepted Answer

Natural gas is odorless, so utilities add mercaptan — a chemical that smells like rotten eggs — to help you detect leaks. If you smell rotten eggs, treat it as a gas leak: turn off the furnace, leave the house immediately, and call the gas company from outside. Do not operate any electrical switches or appliances on your way out.

Question 27

Why does my furnace give off a chemical smell?

Accepted Answer

A chemical or formaldehyde-like smell can come from a cracked heat exchanger allowing combustion gases to mix with your home's air supply — this is a carbon monoxide risk and needs immediate attention. It can also come from new components off-gassing after installation, which is temporary. If the smell is persistent and accompanied by headaches or nausea, shut the system off and call for emergency service.

Question 28

Why does my furnace pilot light keep going out?

Accepted Answer

A pilot light that won't stay lit is usually caused by a faulty thermocouple — the safety device that detects whether the pilot is burning. When the thermocouple fails, it tells the gas valve to shut off even though the pilot is fine. A dirty pilot orifice or a drafty area near the furnace can also blow out the pilot. Thermocouple replacement is a straightforward, inexpensive repair.

Question 29

How do I relight my furnace pilot light?

Accepted Answer

Turn the gas valve knob to 'OFF' and wait five minutes for residual gas to clear. Then turn it to 'PILOT,' press and hold the knob down, and use a long lighter to ignite the pilot. Hold the knob for 30–60 seconds after the pilot lights to let the thermocouple heat up, then release and turn to 'ON.' If the pilot won't stay lit after two attempts, call a technician — forcing it creates a gas buildup risk.

Question 30

How do I know if my furnace ignitor is bad?

Accepted Answer

The most common sign is the furnace going through its startup sequence — you'll hear the inducer motor kick on — but the burners never light. The ignitor glows orange when it's working; if you can safely see it and it doesn't glow during the ignition cycle, it's failed. Most ignitors last 3–5 years. We carry common ignitor types on our trucks and can replace them in a single visit.

Question 31

How much does it cost to replace a furnace ignitor in Asheville?

Accepted Answer

A furnace ignitor replacement in Asheville typically costs $150–$300 including the part and labor. The part itself is $30–$80 depending on the furnace model, with the remainder covering diagnosis and installation. It's one of the most common and affordable furnace repairs, and most technicians can complete it in under 30 minutes.

Question 32

What does a furnace flame sensor do?

Accepted Answer

The flame sensor is a small metal rod in the burner assembly that detects whether the gas has actually ignited. If it doesn't sense a flame within a few seconds of the gas valve opening, it shuts everything down to prevent raw gas from flooding the combustion chamber. It's a critical safety device, and when it gets coated with carbon buildup, it can't do its job — causing the furnace to light briefly then shut off.

Question 33

How do I know if my furnace blower motor is going bad?

Accepted Answer

Warning signs include unusual noises (humming, squealing, or grinding), the blower running intermittently or not at all, weak airflow from your vents, or the furnace overheating and shutting off due to poor air circulation. A blower motor that's hot to the touch or trips the breaker when it starts is on its last legs. Catching it early can save you from a complete mid-winter breakdown.

Question 34

How much does a furnace blower motor replacement cost?

Accepted Answer

In Asheville, a blower motor replacement typically runs $400–$900 depending on whether it's a standard PSC motor or a variable-speed ECM motor. ECM motors are more expensive ($600–$900) but significantly more efficient and quieter. The labor is usually 1–2 hours. If your furnace is over 15 years old, compare the motor cost against replacement of the whole unit.

Question 35

What are the signs of a cracked heat exchanger?

Accepted Answer

Warning signs include a chemical or aldehyde smell during operation, visible soot or corrosion inside the furnace, yellow or flickering burner flames (they should be steady blue), frequent headaches or flu-like symptoms in your household, and carbon monoxide detector alerts. A cracked heat exchanger allows combustion gases including carbon monoxide to mix with your home's air — it's the most serious furnace safety issue there is.

Question 36

Can a cracked heat exchanger be repaired?

Accepted Answer

Technically yes, but in practice we almost never recommend it. Heat exchanger replacement is extremely labor-intensive and costs nearly as much as a new furnace. If the furnace is over 10 years old, replacement is the clear choice. A cracked heat exchanger is a carbon monoxide risk, so we treat it as an urgent safety issue and recommend replacing the furnace promptly.

Question 37

Can a furnace leak carbon monoxide?

Accepted Answer

Yes — any gas furnace with a cracked or corroded heat exchanger can leak carbon monoxide into your home. This is why every home with a gas furnace should have CO detectors on every level and outside sleeping areas. Annual furnace maintenance includes a heat exchanger inspection and combustion analysis to catch cracks before they become dangerous. It's the most important reason to keep up with yearly tune-ups.

Question 38

Why does my furnace keep tripping the breaker?

Accepted Answer

A furnace tripping the breaker is usually caused by a failing blower motor drawing excessive amperage, a short in the wiring, or a grounded-out component. Occasionally a shared circuit that's overloaded is the culprit. Don't keep resetting the breaker — repeated tripping means there's an electrical fault that could cause a fire. A technician will check amperage draw on the motor and inspect wiring for damage.

Question 39

Why isn't my thermostat turning on the furnace?

Accepted Answer

The most common culprits are dead thermostat batteries, the thermostat being set to cooling mode instead of heating, or a tripped float switch if you have a condensing furnace. If the thermostat screen is on and set correctly, the issue may be a broken wire in the thermostat cable, a blown fuse on the furnace control board, or a failed transformer. We can diagnose thermostat-to-furnace communication issues quickly with a multimeter.

Question 40

What are the signs that I need a new furnace?

Accepted Answer

Key indicators are: the furnace is over 15 years old, repair costs are frequent and increasing, your energy bills are rising despite normal usage, some rooms are too hot or too cold, the furnace makes new or louder noises, or you've needed heat exchanger or blower motor repairs. If you're spending more than 50% of replacement cost on a single repair, it's time to invest in new equipment.

Question 41

Should I repair or replace my furnace?

Accepted Answer

Use the 50% rule: if the repair costs more than 50% of a new furnace and the unit is over 10 years old, replace it. Also consider that a new high-efficiency furnace (95–98% AFUE) will cut your heating bills by 20–30% compared to an older 80% AFUE unit. Factor in reliability too — an aging furnace that's needed multiple repairs will likely need more, often at the worst possible time.

Question 42

Is it worth repairing a 20-year-old furnace?

Accepted Answer

In most cases, no. A 20-year-old furnace is at or past its expected lifespan, likely running at 80% efficiency or less, and replacement parts become harder to find and more expensive. A minor repair under $300 might buy you one more season, but investing $500+ in a unit that old is money better put toward a new, efficient system with a full warranty.

Question 43

How much does furnace repair cost in Asheville?

Accepted Answer

Most furnace repairs in Asheville cost between $150 and $600. Simple fixes like an ignitor replacement or flame sensor cleaning run $150–$300. Mid-range repairs like a blower motor capacitor, gas valve, or circuit board are $300–$600. Major repairs like a blower motor replacement can reach $400–$900. We charge a flat diagnostic fee that's applied to the repair cost if you choose to proceed.

Question 44

How do I know if my furnace is leaking carbon monoxide?

Accepted Answer

You often can't tell without a CO detector — carbon monoxide is odorless and colorless. Warning signs include yellow or flickering burner flames (should be steady blue), soot or scorch marks around the furnace, excessive condensation on windows, and family members experiencing headaches, dizziness, or nausea. Install CO detectors on every level of your home and outside sleeping areas, and have your furnace inspected annually.

Question 45

What should I do if my carbon monoxide detector goes off?

Accepted Answer

Leave the house immediately with all family members and pets. Do not stop to open windows or turn off the furnace. Call 911 from outside. Do not re-enter until emergency services have cleared the home and identified the source. Carbon monoxide is lethal at high concentrations, and the source — often a cracked heat exchanger — needs professional repair before the furnace can be used again.

Question 46

Is it safe to run my furnace if it smells like gas?

Accepted Answer

No — shut the furnace off immediately, do not operate any electrical switches, leave the house, and call your gas utility from outside. Even a faint gas smell near the furnace could indicate a cracked gas line, a leaking fitting, or a failed gas valve. Gas leaks are explosive and toxic. Never attempt to find or fix a gas leak yourself.

Question 47

Do you offer emergency furnace repair in Asheville?

Accepted Answer

Yes — we provide 24/7 emergency furnace repair throughout Asheville and Western North Carolina. When your heat fails on a freezing night, call us and a technician will be dispatched as quickly as possible. We stock common parts like ignitors, flame sensors, blower motors, and control boards on our trucks, so most emergency repairs are completed in a single visit.

Question 48

What should I do if my furnace breaks down in the middle of the night?

Accepted Answer

First, check the basics — thermostat settings, air filter, and breaker. If those don't fix it, call us for emergency service. While waiting, use space heaters safely (keep them 3 feet from anything flammable and never leave them unattended), close off unused rooms to conserve heat, and open cabinet doors under sinks on exterior walls to prevent frozen pipes. Never use your oven or stove for heat — it's a carbon monoxide hazard.

Question 49

Can bad ductwork affect my furnace's performance?

Accepted Answer

Absolutely — ductwork is the delivery system for your heated air, and if it's leaking, crushed, disconnected, or undersized, even the best furnace can't keep your home comfortable. We see homes losing 25–40% of their heated air through duct leaks in crawlspaces and attics. Sealing and insulating ductwork is one of the most cost-effective upgrades you can make to improve comfort and lower bills.

Question 50

Why is one room in my house always colder than the others?

Accepted Answer

Uneven heating is usually caused by a duct issue — a crushed flex duct, a disconnected boot, a closed damper, or inadequate supply runs to that room. It can also be caused by poor insulation in an exterior wall or a room that's far from the furnace with long duct runs. We can measure airflow at each register and trace the ductwork to find exactly where the problem is.

Question 51

What areas does Quality Mechanical serve for furnace repair?

Accepted Answer

We serve Asheville and all of Western North Carolina including Hendersonville, Brevard, Waynesville, Black Mountain, Weaverville, Fletcher, Arden, Mills River, Swannanoa, and surrounding communities in Buncombe, Henderson, Haywood, and Transylvania counties. Our technicians are dispatched from Asheville and typically arrive within a few hours for standard service calls.

Question 52

What is the furnace error code flashing on my unit?

Accepted Answer

Most modern furnaces have a diagnostic LED on the control board that flashes a code when something is wrong. The number of flashes corresponds to a specific fault — for example, 3 flashes might mean a pressure switch error while 4 flashes could mean an open high-limit switch. The code chart is usually on a sticker inside the furnace panel door. Note the flash pattern and call us — we can often narrow down the issue over the phone before dispatching a technician.

Question 53

Can I repair my furnace myself?

Accepted Answer

Homeowners can safely handle filter changes, thermostat battery replacement, checking the breaker, and making sure vents are open. Beyond that, furnace repair involves gas lines, high-voltage electricity, and combustion safety — all of which require training and proper tools. A botched DIY repair on a gas furnace can cause carbon monoxide leaks, gas explosions, or electrical fires. For your family's safety, leave internal furnace repairs to licensed professionals.

Question 54

Why is my furnace leaking water?

Accepted Answer

Water around your furnace usually means you have a high-efficiency condensing furnace (90%+ AFUE) and the condensate drain is clogged, cracked, or disconnected. These furnaces produce condensation as a byproduct of extracting extra heat from exhaust gases. A clogged drain line, failed condensate pump, or cracked collector box are the common culprits. Less commonly, a conventional furnace can leak water from a poorly fitted flue pipe causing condensation to drip back down.

Question 55

What causes my HVAC system to short cycle on and off?

Accepted Answer

Short cycling — where the system runs for just a few minutes before shutting off — is usually caused by an oversized system, a dirty filter, a failing compressor, or a thermostat in a bad location that's getting false temperature readings. In our experience across Asheville-area homes, oversized equipment is the number one cause because installers often size by square footage alone without doing a proper Manual J load calculation.

Question 56

My furnace stopped working and it's freezing outside — what do I do?

Accepted Answer

Check your thermostat, breaker, and the furnace power switch first. If you have a gas furnace, make sure the gas valve is open. If nothing works, keep your family safe: use a space heater (away from anything flammable), open faucets to a drip to prevent frozen pipes, and call us for emergency service. In WNC winters, a furnace failure can become a frozen-pipe emergency within hours, so don't wait until morning.

Question 57

Why is my HVAC system so noisy?

Accepted Answer

Noise can come from many sources: a rattling blower wheel, a failing motor bearing, sheet metal ductwork expanding and contracting (called 'oil-canning'), a loose refrigerant line vibrating against framing, or an outdoor unit with a failing compressor or fan motor. Some noise sources are harmless nuisances while others signal impending failure. If you hear new or worsening sounds — especially screeching, grinding, or banging — shut the system off and call us before a minor issue becomes a major repair.

Question 58

What do blinking red and green lights on my Trane furnace mean?

Accepted Answer

Blinking red and green lights on a Trane furnace indicate specific diagnostic fault codes. A steady green light means normal operation, while alternating red/green blinks correspond to errors such as ignition failure (3 red blinks), pressure switch faults (2 red blinks), or flame rollout (4 red blinks). Count the exact number of red blinks before the pattern repeats and contact our Asheville team for a precise diagnosis.

Question 59

Why is my Trane furnace flashing 3 red blinks?

Accepted Answer

Three red blinks on a Trane furnace typically indicate a pressure switch or draft inducer fault. This means the furnace cannot verify proper venting before igniting, often caused by a blocked flue, failed inducer motor, or cracked pressure switch hose. In WNC homes, condensation and debris in vent pipes during cold months are common culprits. Our technicians can diagnose and resolve this quickly.

Question 60

How do I file a Trane warranty claim?

Accepted Answer

Trane offers a base limited warranty (typically 5 years parts) and an optional registered limited warranty (up to 12 years parts) if the unit was registered within 60 days of installation. You must use a licensed dealer for warranty repairs or the claim will be denied. Our team handles the entire Trane warranty claims process, including contacting Trane's warranty department, ordering parts, and completing the repair at no parts cost to you when covered.

Question 61

Why does my Trane furnace keep short cycling?

Accepted Answer

Trane furnace short cycling is frequently caused by an overheating heat exchanger triggering the high-limit safety switch, a dirty air filter restricting airflow, or a malfunctioning flame sensor. On two-stage Trane models, a faulty control board can also cause erratic staging behavior that mimics short cycling. Our technicians will inspect the flame sensor, check for airflow restrictions, and test all safety switches to resolve the issue.

Question 62

How often should I service my Trane HVAC system in Asheville?

Accepted Answer

Trane recommends professional maintenance twice per year: once in spring for cooling and once in fall for heating. In the Asheville area, where pollen is heavy in spring and systems work hard through humid summers and cold mountain winters, this schedule is especially important. Skipping maintenance can void your Trane warranty and lead to premature Climatuff compressor failure.

Question 63

What does a solid red light mean on my Trane furnace?

Accepted Answer

A solid red light on most Trane furnace models indicates a system lockout after multiple failed ignition attempts. The furnace has tried to ignite several times and locked itself out as a safety precaution. You can try resetting by turning the power off for 30 seconds, but if the lockout recurs, the problem is likely a cracked ignitor, faulty gas valve, or flame sensor issue that requires professional repair.

Question 64

Are Trane furnace parts expensive and hard to find?

Accepted Answer

Trane parts are moderately priced compared to premium brands like Lennox but are more expensive than economy brands like Goodman. As a Trane Comfort Specialist dealer, we have direct access to genuine Trane replacement parts and typically stock high-failure items like ignitors, flame sensors, and control boards. Aftermarket parts are available for some components, though we recommend OEM parts for warranty compliance.

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